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Why It Works
- Leaving the base of the leeks intact and tying them together with twine prevents the simmering water from breaking the vegetable apart.
- Placing the cooked leeks cut-side down onto paper towels or a clean kitchen towel and patting them dry helps rid the leeks of excess moisture.
As much as I love elaborate French meals like duck confit and bouillabaisse, my favorite dishes from the cuisine are uncomplicated, vegetable-forward ones such as asparagus with sauce gribiche and leeks vinaigrette, both of which involve pairing simply cooked vegetables with a bold sauce that complements their naturally sweet, earthy flavors. Leeks vinaigrette is a particular favorite of mine, and the recipe below from our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Craig Ruff captures the very best of the dish. The leeks, dressed in an assertive vinaigrette of mustard and sherry vinegar, are soft and silky, and each bite practically melts in your mouth.
Preparing the dish is simple: You blanch the leeks, and while they cool, you have a few minutes to whip up a speedy vinaigrette. The most time-consuming part is washing the leeks to rid them of any dirt. In culinary school, I was taught to halve the leeks lengthwise, then submerge them in a bowl of cold water, swirling and swishing them around to coax the grit out. But you can also just wash them well under running water, as instructed in the recipe below. After a quick rinse, the leeks are ready to go into a pot of salted boiling water.
Craig has a clever technique for keeping the leeks intact during the cooking process. Instead of halving the leeks lengthwise all the way through the stem, he slices them only until about an inch above the stem, then ties the halves back together with twine. This prevents the vegetable from breaking apart during cooking, making it easier to dress, plate, and serve them. After the leeks cook, Craig places them cut-side down onto a paper towel– or kitchen towel–lined plate to drain off excess liquid and pats them dry, minimizing the risk of extra water diluting the vinaigrette. Served with a tart vinaigrette, chopped boiled eggs, parsley, and briny capers, the dish is savory and tangy in all the right ways. You can serve the dish as a first course or as a side with roast chicken or pan-fried fish, though I love it simply served with a warm hunk of baguette.
This recipe was developed by Craig Ruff; the headnote was written by Genevieve Yam.
An Easy French Classic Every Home Cook Should Try
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2 quarts (1.9 L) tap water
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1 1/4 ounces Diamond Crystal kosher salt (36 g; 1/4 cup plus 1/4 teaspoon), divided; for table salt, use half as much by volume
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4 small leeks (6 ounces; 170 g each), white and light green parts (see notes)
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1 1/2 tablespoons (22 ml) sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
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1 tablespoon (9 g) finely chopped shallot, from 1 medium shallot
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2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard
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1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
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1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
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3 tablespoons (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
To Garnish:
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1 hard-boiled egg, chopped
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1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
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1 teaspoon capers
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In a 4-quart saucepan, bring water and 1/4 cup salt to a boil over high heat. While water comes to a boil, trim roots from leeks, taking care to leave base intact. Halve leeks lengthwise, stopping 1-inch above the base. Rinse leeks thoroughly under cool running water to remove any dirt between layers. Using kitchen twine, tie both halves of each leek about two-thirds of the way up to hold them together. Line a plate with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel; set aside.
Serious Eats / Victor Protasio
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Lower leeks into boiling water; reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, covered, until base of leek can be easily pierced with a paring knife, about 12 minutes. Using tongs or a spider skimmer, transfer leeks to a paper towel-lined plate, allowing excess water to drip off. Let rest at room temperature until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.
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While leeks cool, place sherry vinegar and shallots in a medium bowl and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk in whole-grain mustard, Dijon mustard, pepper, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Slowly stream in olive oil, whisking vigorously and constantly, until emulsified and creamy. Set vinaigrette aside.
Serious Eats / Victor Protasio
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Remove twine from leeks. Completely halve leeks lengthwise, and arrange, cut side down, on paper towel-lined plate. Place paper towels on top of leeks, and gently press down on leeks to remove any excess water.
Serious Eats / Victor Protasio
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Spread half (40 ml) of the vinaigrette evenly over platter. Arrange leeks, cut side up, on platter; drizzle with remaining vinaigrette. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs, parsley, and capers.
Serious Eats / Victor Protasio
Special Equipment
4-quart saucepan, tongs or spider skimmer, kitchen twine
Notes
Look for leeks that are 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, as they tend to be sweeter and more tender.
Make-Ahead and Storage
The vinaigrette can be made up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. If the vinaigrette separates, whisk it or shake it in a tightly sealed container to re-emulsify.
The leeks can be cooked and marinated in the vinaigrette up to 3 hours before serving. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Remove leeks from fridge about 20 minutes before serving.
The finished dish is best eaten the day it’s prepared, but leftovers can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
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