Why It Works
- Soaking dried marrowfat peas in a brine of salt and baking soda helps soften the beans, resulting in creamy, tender legumes once cooked.
- Fresh mint gives the dish a cool, refreshing flavor and helps brighten the peas.
Mushy peas may not sound enticing. But the dish, which is often served alongside fish and chips or sausages in Britain, is deeply comforting. Dried marrowfat peas—which are more mature than regular green peas and harvested later—are simmered until they’re tender, then mashed into a hearty purée.
The peas are nutty and wonderfully savory, and though the dish is extraordinarily simple, it’s one of my favorite things to eat whenever my husband and I visit his grandmother, Gaga, in Scotland. We head to the chippy, an affectionate term Brits have for their local fish and chip spots, where I order at least two portions of mushy peas—then ask everyone else if I can eat theirs, too.
Since I only ever get mushy peas when I’m in the U.K., eating them feels like a special occasion to me. I associate mushy peas with the chippy so much that it has never occurred to me to make them at home—which is why I’ve never tried to recreate them. When I heard that our Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Renu Dhar was developing a recipe for the British classic, I was thrilled to have someone to talk to about dried peas.
Renu’s method is similar to many traditional British recipes: She brines dried marrowfat peas in a solution of salt and baking soda overnight, then simmers them until they’re soft. Beans and peas contain plenty of pectin, which helps plants—including fruits, vegetables, and legumes—keep their shape. Soaking the starchy marrowfat peas with water, salt, and baking soda helps soften the peas by making that pectin more soluble, resulting in ultra-creamy beans that cook much faster than beans that haven’t been brined in the same solution. The soak also helps to season the peas throughout and produces a more flavorful dish.
When the peas are tender, Renu mashes them up, then seasons them with salt and a touch of fresh mint, a modern spin that’s not uncommon in the U.K. today. It’s refreshing, but still hearty and satisfying, and every bit as delicious as the mushy peas I’ve eaten in the U.K. “These mushy peas are like a hug,” Renu tells me. “It’s simplicity at its best.”
This recipe was developed by Renu Dhar; the headnote was written by Genevieve Yam.
This 5-Ingredient Side Dish Is a British Classic
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2 teaspoons baking soda
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2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt, divided; for table salt, use half as much by volume
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7 ounces dried marrowfat peas (200 g; 1 cup), see notes
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20 ounces (590 ml; 2 1/2 cups) water, plus more as needed
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2 (1-inch) fresh mint leaves, finely chopped (optional)
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In a large bowl, combine baking soda and 1 teaspoon salt. Add peas; add enough water to cover peas by 3 inches, and stir to combine. Cover with a plate, kitchen towel, or plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature for at least 8 hours and up to 12 hours.
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Using a fine-mesh sieve, drain and rinse peas. In a 4-quart saucepan, combine peas and 2 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and gently simmer, stirring occasionally, until peas are soft and beginning to get mushy, 30 minutes to 1 hour, adding more water, about 2 tablespoons at a time, as needed if mixture appears dry.
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Uncover saucepan. Using the back of a spoon or a potato masher, mash peas until starting to become smooth. Continue cooking and mashing over medium-low until all peas are smashed and mushy and consistency appears thick, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Add fresh mint (if using); serve hot.
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Special Equipment
Fine-mesh sieve, 4-quart saucepan, spoon or potato masher
Notes
Marrowfat peas are picked once they are fully mature and have dried out on the vine. They can be purchased online or at specialty food stores. Some marrowfat peas may come with a packet of baking soda for soaking. You can use that to soak the peas, along with 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt, if desired. (If using table salt, use half as much by volume.)
Make-Ahead and Storage
Once cooled, the mushy peas can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. They will continue to thicken as they sit. To reheat the peas, add water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until it reaches your desired consistency, then microwave until warmed through.
Once cooled, mushy peas can be frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in refrigerator.